Friday, February 29, 2008

New series!! Malawi is a land with problems

As keen followers of international political and social affairs, we all know Malawi to be a place where for decennia people have suffered from poverty, starvation, deadly diseases, corrupt leaders and what not. Indeed, the very reason I have come here is to try and contribute a little bit to the eradication of some of these evils. But having been here for a while now and reading the newspapers it becomes apparent that this is not all. As if being poor, sick, hungry and ripped off is not enough, it seems there is a whole bunch of other issues out there that just aren’t right. I therefore decided to start a new series on my Blog to let you in on some of the other challenges facing Malawians today. Please find below the first installment: the horrendous and downright illegal use of flashing lights and sirens:

THE DAILY TIMES, Thursday, February 28, 2008

Malawi Government

MINISTRY OF TRANSPORT, PUBLIC WORKS & HOUSING

DIRECTORATE OF ROAD TRAFFIC

PRESS RELEASE

ILLEGAL USE OF FLASHING LIGHTS AND SIRENS

The Directorate of Road Traffic has noted with concern on illegal fitting and use of Flashing Lights (Beacons) on Sirens on vehicles in the country. The Directorate wishes to inform that under the Road Traffic Act it is illegal to fit and operate a motor vehicle on a public road with flashing light (beacon) and sirens which is not authorized by the Directorate of the Road Traffic.

The Road Traffic Act (1997) section 91 (3b) and 93(b) and Road Traffic Regulations 200 under Construction, Equipment and Use, Part IV “Equipment On or in Respect of Vehicles”, Regulation 64 (2), (3), (4), (5), and Regulation 89 n(2) clearly outlines the motor vehicles authorized to have the facility in execution of duty listed are as follows:-

VEHICLE COULOUR OF LIGHT SIREN

Road Traffic Directorate Blue Yes

Police Blue Yes

Ambulance Red Yes

Fire-Fighting Red Yes

Construction vehicles Amber No

Rescue vehicles Red Yes

Break-down Towing vehicles Amber No

There are other protected names, signs and emblems which are protected by the laws of the land e.g check band which are normally used by the law enforcement security Agencies. On this, if in doubt please contact the Directorate of Road Traffic or the Police. The Directorate of Road Traffic is requesting all those concerned to obtain clearance and register with Road Traffic Before 1st March, 2008.

The Directorate of Road Traffic always appreciates your voluntary compliance and cooperation on such important matters.

DIRECTORATE

Wednesday, February 27, 2008

"Madam... he has come!"

Last weekend I moved into my new house.  It turned out that Alfred’s moving out was not entirely coincidental to my arrival after all. He was moving to a new house that he had been building in the past few years. He told me that the build of this new town house had been a bit slow in recent months because he had been concentrating on finishing his holiday house at Lake Malawi first… The fact that I had arrived had sped up his move to his new house which he could finish now using the rent that VSO is paying him for my house. Not a bad deal, I should think. Especially since the union is paying for all the refurbishing that was done in the past two weeks. So no pity on the good man, who also removed all the plants from the garden and every single light bulb from the house when he left.

So on Saturday my lovely colleague Jackson came to pick me up at my temporary house with an enormous truck. We threw in my suitcases and a couple of bags with household equipment I had purchased in preparation for the move. Then it was off to the VSO depot to collect my furniture. VSO supplies everything one needs in a house: fridge, hotplate, beds, dining room table with chairs and no less than two overstuffed sofas with matching comfy chairs - Malawi style. This means that they are covered in such a tacky, burgundy velvety material that I can state with absolute confidence that the interior of my house now has the ability to move to tears third-rate brothel owners all over the world.

With the move to my permanent place I also had to find a security guard to protect my house, my stuff and myself while I am asleep. This is quite normal practice in Malawi, and not just for white people. Lots of Malawians have night guards depending on the area where they live and the security situation of their house. As white people - and therefore perceived to be extremely rich - volunteers are an attractive target for burglars. Moreover, there are special circumstances that can make a person extra vulnerable to a break-in during the night. Two senior policemen that delivered a security briefing to the new volunteers in our first week in Malawi warned us that some thieves go to witchdoctors to buy a special charm that puts prospective victims in such a deep sleep that they do not notice their house being emptied around them. For all these reasons VSO recommends that all volunteers hire a night watchman and they give us a special allowance to pay their salary. But how to go about finding such a person? A reliable, brave man prepared to maim and kill in defense of my burgundy furniture? I decided to ask James, one of the guards at my temporary lodgings for advice and he immediately suggested I interview his brother the following evening. The next morning at 6.30 I was barely awake when I heard a knock at the door and James booming in a deep grave voice: “Madam, the man you have been waiting for has come!!” Still half asleep I excitedly thought: ‘Oh wow! Can this really be happening? Richard Armitage here in Lilongwe? On my very doorstep?!’ But of course no such luck. Another kind of luck: James’ very nervous, but very polite and eager brother Mayeso.  After a short interview and some serious negotiations about working hours and salary I thought he would make a fine guard-annex-gardener and offered him the job. He was so grateful, it was painful to watch: “Oh Madam!” (Mind you, this was before he had even seen my furniture) “May God bless you with a long life! I am so happy I will be under a white woman now! I am so lucky that I have found a white employer to look after me and my family!” And indeed, in Malawi being an employer does not simply mean exchanging money for labour. It is almost like adopting a whole family. When someone gets sick you must help. If someone in the extended family dies you must contribute to the cost of the funeral. If Mayeso dies I must buy the coffin. And with an estimated HIV/Aids prevalence of about 15% these are not merely imaginary occurrences. As I am typing this I can hear him walking around my house, keeping watch. He seems to have a very nasty cough this evening… Just great…

PS: I have been so busy with adapting to a 1000 new, strange, exciting and practical things in my first few weeks that I have kept you waiting for this post longer than usual. I apologise and once I have settled in to my new life a bit more I will mend my ways… Also, some of you informed me that Blogger is not allowing anyone to post comments. I do not know why this is and I will definitely look into it because I am missing them too!

Monday, February 11, 2008

Toto, we're not in Kansas anymore!

I have arrived. I am in Malawi. In its capital city Lilongwe to be precise, my hometown for the next year or so. The journey to get here went very well, although the farewell at Schiphol was rather more tearful than usual. Saying good-bye seems to have gotten harder over the years. In the past I used to practically sprint towards the customs officers, bouncing with anticipation about the new adventures that were awaiting me. This time though, the farewell committee consisting of Janine, Marijn and Fien nearly had to boot me out of the country, wet eyes, wet nose, wet handkerchief and all.

By the time I reached Heathrow I had sufficiently recovered to meet the other four Dutch volunteers who had been on the same flight with me. And at Lilongwe Airport we met up with the rest: a collection of English, Scottish, Pilipino, Indian and Kenyan nationals. A fresh batch of doctors, nurses, teachers, irrigation officers and organisation advisers: we were 14 in total. Queuing up to enter Malawi we were all a bit nervous to see if someone had really come to pick us up. We needn’t have worried. We were met by Margie, a VSO programme assistant who took us to a hostel were she would guide us through the first week of what VSO calls ‘in-country training’. A series of sessions on culture, language and security, a trip to a health centre, buying Malawian SIM cards for our mobile phones, sightseeing in Lilongwe’s old town, et cetera. The most exciting part of the ICT promised to be the ‘employers’ workshop’. The employers of all new volunteers come down to Lilongwe to meet ‘their’ volunteers. Bosses and volunteers then spend two days getting to know each other, discussing organisation culture (What (not) to wear, what to call people, working hours, etc), exchanging mutual expectations and concerns, and planning the first few days at work. Some employers had traveled for one and a half days to attend the workshop, so you can imagine my disappointment when my employer, based in Lilongwe, the nearest of them all, failed to show up! I must say was quite upset. I feared this was Vanuatu all over again, where most organisations did not really give a hoot about volunteers and treated them accordingly. Thankfully the VSO office here seems to be more astute than the one in Vanuatu and a few telephone calls were quickly made to track down one of my new bosses, the Secretary General (SG) or the Executive Secretary (ES) of the Teachers Union of Malawi (TUM). When the SG, Denis, was found he explained that the invitation to the workshop must have been wrongly forwarded to his predecessor, so he and the ES, Alfred, were actually quite unaware it was going on at all. To my great relief he cleared his schedule immediately and joined the workshop as soon as he could. It was agreed that we would catch up on the parts that he missed on Monday morning at the TUM offices together with the ES and some-one from VSO.

Friday after lunch all volunteers re-packed their bags and the big moment had arrived. Everybody was piled into their employers’ cars and set off for their new home and place of work somewhere in Malawi. In five weeks time we will meet again for the second part of the ICT. I cannot wait to hear everybody’s stories!

So what about me? Where did I go? As I had accepted my placement late in December the house that the TUM had found for me was not quite ready yet. It had been approved by VSO only the day before and was now being painted. Therefore the assistant to the VSO education programme, a nice guy called Kayakangu, dropped me at my temporary accommodation and invited me to go and have a look at my new house. Good plan! The house is in ‘Area 49b’, an average Lilongwe suburb, which I think is great. Sometimes volunteers in capital cities are housed in predominantly ex-pat areas where the chances of getting to know and integrating with local people are very slim. Hopefully that will not be the case here. When we arrived at the house we were invited in by someone whom I assumed to be the landlord, and who introduced himself as Alfred. ‘Hey, another Alfred’ I thought ‘Must be a popular name’, and as I was focused on the house I thought nothing further of it. The landlord showed me around the house, which he was in the process of moving out off. This I found a bit odd, but again thought nothing more of. As we went from room to room I pointed out things that I thought needed fixing such as some missing window panes, the odd missing security bar and the kitchen counter that was nearly falling apart. The landlord and Kayakangu assured me that everything would be taken care of. In the backyard I saw an old rusty car without wheels and an enormous pile of rubbish and I politely insisted that I really hoped those would be removed before I moved in as well. Again the landlord gently confirmed that he would take care of it. Overall I was quite pleased with the place and hopefully I will be moving in sometime next week. When it was time to leave we all shook hands and Kayakangu said to Alfred “So we will see you on Monday morning at the TUM offices to go over some of the stuff that was discussed in the workshop”. At first I thought ‘Huh? Why should this landlord be joining us for that?’ (honestly that is how thick I was!) but then it finally hit me. Ooh……my……God……! Oh nooo!!! Had I really been more or less ordering my new boss to do this, that and the other to his own house? The house that he was actually painting and moving out off to accommodate me? What must he have thought of my behaviour?! Even though words could not begin to describe my embarrassment, I started apologizing profusely. For some reason Kayakangu had assumed that we already knew each other so he too apologized for not introducing us properly. Thankfully Alfred took it all in good humour. He seems like a really friendly gentle man. Let’s hope he will get a better impression of me as we start working together!

On the way back Kayakangu assured me that Alfred’s moving out was coincidental to my arrival. I am not completely convinced. I will keep you posted.